Michael Schneider

 

The 1990's were a search for balance.

 

Pictured above, during one of the few known complete ascents, I am on the first crux of the route.   My climb goes straight up to a sloping double hand slap on the edge of the lichen-covered overlap and then up through the next set of overhangs above;  The Lost World Direct. 5.11d/.12. 

 

My notes mention the modeling clay on Lost World used to cement vertical flakes stuffed in a tight corner, that provided much needed but sketchy protection lower down on the route.  After initial recon, Pitch one a rope stretching journey, that included  less apealing rock, like the cemented flakes , was by passed for a modern approach, a rap in /climb out style ascent. 

 

When this section of the cliff  in the Near Trapps is viewed from the Mountain Brauhaus parking lot, it appears that a climber is poised to move up the streaked slab below the roofs.  The stack of rocks that convey this mirage provided the stance from where the photo was taken.(photo: Malina Schneider)

 

On the steep wall, at the top left edge of the picture, is Hearing Bells 5.12d/r.   A climb I pioneered and Dave Lahnman led onsight.  Out right, just past the widest part of the roof (out of frame) is Blue World 5.12d/13 r.