Michael Schneider

The amount of climbing and bouldering in the wooded hillsides of the Danbury area is nothing short of amazing.  The top quality areas are defined by the variety (in all difficulties) the number of singular lines and the ease of use of the area.

 

The tortured history of Connecticut rock climbing demands that I start by raising the white flag of surrender.  No anchors, pins, bolts, or any other fixed gear has been left.  That being said, if you do find stuff, (bolts, anchors etc.) do not touch them.  If you did not build it, do not trust or use it.  Do not wreck it, or clean it, leave it alone.

 

A word about access: I did not ask how, or if, where or who.  I found ice and rock and I climbed it.  Going forward, I will ask some questions and continue to climb carefully. 

 

Keeping climbing areas open, by being aware of other users view of climbing’s impact on their experience, is every climbers responsibility.  Not everyone likes the look of gear or chalk spots on dark rock, brush off your tic marks and chalk trails.

 

Always travel low profile be wary of your surroundings.  If challenged be polite, back down and LEAVE to be able to climb another day.  Always try to leave no trace of your visit to the cathedral of nature, even in urban areas, the rocks and cliffs are special places.

 

A good rule to maintaining access to climbing areas, it is better to climb somewhere else, than in front of a crowd. Some one in the crowd always tries to copy what they see (there’s one in every crowd).  Climb in the company of other climbers but not for the entertainment of any one else.  As a rule when non-climbers stand around and gawk and/or are (a) drinking, (b) cheering, or(c) acting as if they are a part of the climbing group, (often it is a, b and c) it’s time to stop climbing. Teaching the art of climbing, trying to show how it’s done safely to novices, is a task that should be planned and should follow a set of standards that do not include having only just met. 

 

People, “lookie-loos” do not understand the risk, skill, level of commitment, or the tenacity that climbing demands.  Trying to copy what they see climbers do, if they get hurt, could put the area at risk of being closed to climbing. The legality of stupid is always in question; the public at large is not informed or able to clearly understand the current trends in bouldering/climbing (repeated attempts, dynos, sit starts etc.). To keep from having the often-repeated scenario of an injury to a non-climber close an area,don't pick up strangers. It is every climber’s duty to take responsibility for his or her own actions.  This is not the gym, this is not basketball, (No pick up games) and it is not a sanctioned sport. The oldest rule and still the best one is don’t mess the place up.  Climb smart, climb safe and if you’re lucky climb forever.  I know this is preachy.  Most areas that are open to the public allow climbing but not all, sometimes there are restrictions. The multi-use nature of an area is not always evident; climbers may or may not be the only people to visit a zone.  Good stewardship of the wild spaces will help keep these areas open to everyone.

 

Sadly the chainsaw massacre at Sugar Hollow that may or may not have had some thing to do with the widening of Rt. 7 (survey markers found) decimated the natural anchors. Apart from the environmental damage, the cutting led to the closing of great routes because the fallen trees provided so much nest material that the Ravens built a two story condo sized nest. The Large birds can be aggressive and should be avoided.  A standard no climbing during spring nesting:  March through the end of july should be followed. This is covered by CT DEEP ordinances.

 

Attempts to remove the nests will result in bringing down the wrath of who knows how many other land users, zealous conservationists, who think they know what’s best for the natural environment.  Given time the birds may move on to other nesting sites.  As the nests are new and re homing of the nests is what might occur naturally as people/climbers are introduced to the area, leave them be.   (See pics below)

The boulder,The Hungry Bear, has recently shed an important flake on the side out of veiw. This shot shows 8 established lines. the bear and bad landings.